When the mould is dry, you can start making the latex skin for the mask. To make this I brush latex into the mould when closed.
First I need to make sure that the joint is completely sealed, since any small gaps will show in the latex, and it will also drip out from the mould if it is not completely sealed all over the divition line. To seal it I simply press some clay around the line from the inside, and just to avoid any mess I also put the mould in a plastic bag in case of that it would leak anyway.
The latex I use is the same moulding latex as for the skin, with latex thickener and white acrylic. I pour the first layer in while twisting the mould, this is to avoid marks from the brush on the latex. When it has dried, I brush the other layers in, the thicker the latex is, the easier it is to brush it since it can be quite tricky to get it to stay in play else way. To thicken the latex even more I mixed in some talcum powder until it was thick enough, this made it much easier to brush it.
After 3 layers I add some power net around the neck and in the back of the head where the zip will be, to increase the latex strength and make it possible to sew in the zip.
When the layer with the powernet is dry I simply take the skin out, it is not even necessary to open the mould since the latex is very flexible.
The skin came out very well and ready to be used.
In the back of the head a zip is needed to be able to get in and out of the mask, it is necessary to use a heavy duty zip since the invisible ones does not hold for the strength of the latex. Pinning in latex can be quite difficult so I recommend you to use craft or upholstery pins with a plastic back, to save your fingers from to much suffering.
When the zip is done I cut out the holes for the eyes and nose rils and then it is time for the mask to be painted.
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